Monday, September 21, 2009

Great Santa Cruz 'Pink Beach' Island, Zamboanga

July 2006, my Zambuangeño hosts invited me to go to Great Santa Cruz Island a day after we visited Basilan's Malamawi White Beach. I was still overwhelmed with the fact that I stepped on Basilan territory, and can't believe we will go next to a pink beach.


The small port for Santa Cruz Island-bound boats can be found near Lantaka Hotel along Valderrosa St. We got there early morning, but had to wait for the tourist police who will be escorting us to the island. Santa Cruz was a popular stop for tourists, until kidnappings in nearby areas caused a decline on the number of visitors. And for the brave who insist on going, they shall be escorted.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Kwebang Lampas

Armed with P1,500 each, the five of us (Jules, Oliver, Tristan, Erwin and I) met up at Wendy's Buendia about quarter to one. The original 3am meeting based on the itinerary was changed to 12 noon since Oliver will be getting off work at 7am, and I'll be done with a badminton match at 11.

We left the Lucena Lines Buendia terminal at 1:30pm. The bus ride took 4 hours. P216 will take you until the Lucena terminal where jeeps to neighboring towns are queued up. Jeep to Pagbilao costs P13 to its public market, about half an hour ride. I asked the driver regarding jeeps heading to the coast of Kwebang Lampas and he said we already missed the last trip. I kind of expected it to happen, and so the next task was to find a place where the group can spend the night.


After we glutted over sweet and sour fish, chicken, rice and noodles, we set off to get another jeep to go back to the highway to find Greenview Motel. This motel was suggested by the vendor where we bought the fried chicken from. The building does not have a signboard bearing its name and we mistakenly walked towards its rear entrance which was closed, and chanced upon a karaoke joint beside it. I told everyone we'd have to sing karaoke once settled.

Overnight rate for a fan room is P350 for two people, and an additional P150 for another person. We set-up the skimboard-cum-table and drank my birthday wine. Thereafter, we agreed to go back to the karaoke place which appeared to be a fave hang-out for trike drivers who'd enter their numbers without browsing through the song book.

We left the bar around 10pm, the place was starting to get rowdy with the waitresses all dressed in mini skirts and dresses. Jules and I did some sentimental chitchat before hitting the sack at the stroke of midnight. Wake-up call was supposedly 5am but I already knocked a quarter before because I knew the boys would need more time to jump-start. No more morning pleasantries, just "quick take a shower!". We were lucky to get a jeep early and arrived at the station for Polo bound jeeps at 6am. First trip was to depart at 7, so we had enough time to eat breakfast and search for Jules' Stik-O.

Fare is P32 each, and we were dropped off at the end point of that 45-minute ride, the quaint town of Iba, Polo. We walked mindlessly and didn't know where to go next when I noticed the towering power plant, which I've read should serve as the landmark.


We saw a PNP station and asked the guy at the desk where Kwebang Lampas is, and said he's not a local and asked someone else too for us. He directed us to follow a path until the coast, which should just be a kilometer trek. The trail's pretty easy to figure out.


Once you reach a fenced private property along the coast, that should be it. No welcome sign whatsoever. You will be greeted by a slew of starved dogs and an old man who will ask for P35 each. After a few steps from the gate, the beautiful stretch of white sand and the infamous cave appeared on the periphery. I looked up, saw the soft glowing nimbus of the sun and rushed to change into my suit.


After almost five hours of beaching, we lazily packed our bags. We wanted to extend, but clearly can't as we all got matters to take care of back in Manila. Since we weren't completely satisfied, we planned for a road trip next time. Only, we're keeping our fingers crossed all of us can join again. I know for a fact I may not be able to, not anytime soon.

For people who wish to camp by the way, it's not possible. The family who owns the property does not allow it. And there's no running water, so bring enough for cooking and washing dishes after. Bring extra food too, please help feed the dogs.

Update Jan. 6 2010: Huts are now charged since the place has gained popularity. I still have to verify the amount, but should only be P300-P500.

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Friday, September 18, 2009

Patar Beach

The driver of our hired van should have at least consulted a map before driving to a province unknown to him. Instead of taking the route from Camiling, we drove all the way to Urdaneta-Dagupan-Lingayen to reach Alaminos. Then from Alaminos, to Bolinao. A trip that took 8 hours (which should only be 4-5) before we reached our destination.


We arrived at midnight, and so Shervin and I didn't have a choice (Pearl's Sea Breeze is distant from the other resorts) but to pay P1,000 a night for a small air-conditioned separate room. The two rooms booked by the team (it was my sister's team building) were just enough for all of them. The rate was way above our budget, but this turned out to be wise decision for we bummed off Gabe's team for food. Room rental by the way, comes with free use of their kitchen with fridge. They also have a barbecue pit where you can grill food.


The next day, after a late breakfast, we headed to Cape Bolinao. It sits on top of Punta Piedra Point, and is the second highest lighthouse in the Philippines. It's easily accessible from any of the accommodations along Patar beach via private vehicle. Hiring a tricycle can also be arranged with your resort's management.


After taking photos of the awesome view from the lighthouse, we drove to the main road and scanned the row of resorts. Pearl's Sea Breeze, where we were staying, has a rocky shore so we entered a different resort just for a swim. And that's pretty much what we did for the rest of the day, until sunset.


We were home bound by day three. But before we left for Manila, we visited the famous Bolinao church. Built in 1607, it is considered as one of the oldest churches in the Philippines.

I don't know which of Gabe's colleagues suggested to go to Bolinao for their team building, but I'm sure glad he or she did. I cannot remember if I've ever been to a Pangasinan beach before (some of our relatives live in this province, and I'm not sure if they took us there when we were kids).

How to get there:

For public transport, bus companies Five Star, Victory Liner and Dagupan Bus have routes to Pangasinan.

For private vehicles, take NLEX and exit at Dau. Follow the road going to Baguio. When you reach Tarlac City, at the Victory Liner junction (Siesta stopover) take the road to Camiling and Bugallon. Drive until the next junction at Bugallon then take the road to Sual and Alaminos, Pangasinan. You will pass through the town of Bani then turn right to Bolinao. I am not good in giving directions (I can't remember which website I initially got this from so apologies for not giving credits), if this is confusing for you, just ask around as you go. It's actually pretty easy!

Accommodation:

Pearl's Sea Breeze Resort
+639178579117
Website: http://www.pearlsseabreezeresort.com

For a more luxurious vacation, visit:

Treasures of Bolinao
Bolinao Office: +63 (075)6961297 / (075) 696-0668
Manila Office: +63 (02) 497-1068 / (02) 413-4914
Website: http://www.treasuresofbolinao.com
Email: bolinaotreasures@yahoo.com

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Thursday, September 17, 2009

Sagada Guesthouses/Hostels

Sagada is the new Baguio! Don't worry, it's not because of a ballooning population nor pollution... I can say this now because of better, paved roads from Banaue to Bontoc to Sagada. Though the project is not entirely finished, it will definitely make a topload ride more comfortable.


Unless it's Holy Week, Undas or Christmas break, there's no need to book ahead. Sagada has a number of guesthouses and hostels, and it's always better to do an ocular first before checking in so you can find the perfect room to suit your budget and other personal preferences. Hereunder is a list with corresponding contact numbers. I did not gather this information myself, I only found it misprinted at the back of my Sagada Adventure Packages brochure. Yes, the brochure is computer-printed. Anyway, I have not tried calling any of the numbers (I've always stayed at Ohlabinan's because of their second floor balcony), so I cannot assure you that they are indeed the numbers to call.

Central/Westwards:
Alapo's 0921-327-9055
Alfredo's Inn 0918-588-3535
Ganduyao 0921-273-8097
Sagada Homestay 0919-702-8380
Sagada Guesthouse 0919-357-4377
Saint Joseph

Eastwards/Northwards
A-7 House 0921-287-6093
Billy's House 0921-603-2745
Churya-a 0906-430-0853
Mapiyaaw Pension 0921-390-0560
Rock Valley Inn 0918-643-2784
Rock Inn 0920-909-5899
Yabami Lodge 0920-411-9976
Gecko Inn 0920-289-5471

Southwards
Canaway
George Guesthouse 0918-5480406
Green House
Igorot Inn 0928-630-5479
Olahbinan 0928-406-7647
Residential Lodge 0919-672-8744
Travelers' Inn 0920-799-2960

Hotel rates, range from P200-500 per night.

Sagada's Regulations (also taken from brochure):

*Visitors must register at the Information Center and pay P20 per person for the environmental fee.
*All tours are arranged at the Information Center.
*Acquire only accredited local guides at the Information Center.
*Mutilating, defacing and destroying of natural beauties is punishable by law.
*Observe proper waste management.
*Observe the 9pm curfew.

Schedule of Trips

Manila-Banaue 8 hours
Call to verify schedule, may vary depending on season
Autobus (P425) 10:00pm
Florida (P450) 10:45pm

Banaue-Manila 8 hours
Autobus 06:00pm
Florida 08:00om

Sagada-Baguio 6 1/2 hours
GL/Lizardo
5:00am
6:30am
8:00am
9:00am
10:00am
1:00pm

Sagada-Bontoc 50 minutes
Every hour starting 6:30-1:00pm

Bontoc-Banaue 2 hours
Bus
7:00am
7:30am
8:30am
Jeepney
7:00am
10:am
1:00pm

Note: Scheduled trips usually start ahead once full.

More info on Sagada here: http://sagada-igorot.blogspot.com/

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Sagada's Yoghurt House and Lemon Pie House

Okay, so we've known Sagada's Yoghurt House since the beginning of time... A little exaggerated I know, but all I'm saying is that this cafe/restaurant has made its mark and the name 'Yoghurt House' has been recited like a mantra by every spelunker who has gone down from Mt. Province.


You can choose from plain to yoghurt with strawberry preserve, banana, or granola - or just mix everything together. An affordable P65-75 homemade, quality dessert! Their meals are good too, prices range from P100-200. Looks a bit pricey for some, but the serving can be shared by two people especially their pasta dishes.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Sagada Adventure Packages

After the stroke of midnight, second of September, Shervin and Gabe greeted me a 'happy birthday'. We were aboard Autobus, and we were traversing Nueva Ecija, bound for Banaue. Prior the trip, I couldn't choose between Sagada and Tuguegarao. If I choose sagada, it's going to be my seventh time there, though I've never celebrated my birthday in Mt. Province yet. And I have never set foot on Cagayan, so it was a tough call. My final decision? Go to Sagada, then to Tuguegarao.


I spent half of my birthday on the road. We were even stranded for a few minutes (Bontoc-Sagada) after a part of the mountain was deliberately blasted to "prevent a landslide". We watched a bulldozer clear the rubble, while drinking our Infinit Cocktail (we bought from Ministop across Autobus' Manila station, and hoped to drink at a stopover just after midnight - which obviously did not happen).

I will not bore you any more of what happened to us after that, instead, I will provide some new information I have gathered from Sagada's Municipal Hall. I do not know when they implemented these tour packages, but they sure weren't present the last time I visited.

Please take note that the following bits of information were copied off a brochure given away by Sagada's Municipality. I thought, knowing these beforehand can help tourists come up with an itinerary (and appropriate budget) before heading here especially those with limited time, i.e. weekend travelers:


Southern Sagada:
Cave Connection (4hours)
Sugong Hanging Coffins viewpoint
Lumiang Burial Cave
Kapay-aw Rice Terraces viewpoint
P800 for 1/2pax
Optional Ride: +P400



Southern Sagada Package 2:
Short Course Caving (2hours)
Sugong Hanging Coffins viewpoint
Lumiang Burial Cave
Kapay-aw Rice Terraces viewpoint
Sumaging Cave
P500 for a group up to 4pax
Optional Ride: +P350




Central Sagada:
Eco-Cultural Tour
Echo Valley hanging coffins
Underground River entrance
Bokong (Small Falls)
P400 for a group of up to 10pax

Northern Sagada:
Bomod-ok
Big Falls
Fidelisan Rice Terraces
Northern Sagada Villages
P600 for a group of up to 10pax
Optional Ride: +650


Eastern Sagada:
Lamagan/Marlboro Country
Limestone Formations
Wild Horses
P600 for a group of up to 10pax

Western Sagada:
Ampacao
Mountain Trek
Demang Community
P600 for a group of up to 10 pax

Eastern Sagada (start at 4:30am):
Kiltepan
Sunrise View
Rice Terraces
P450 for a group of up to 10pax

Western Sagada (start at 4:30pm):
Lake Danum
Sunset View
Pottery Shop
P450 for a group of up to 10pax

"Choose your own adventure", the brochure's header says. And when you do, please take note of a few reminders:

*Wear a comfy shirt, and shorts (denims will give you a hard time!).
*Be ready to get wet in Sumaging! Waterproof your gadgets, don't depend on your guide to carry all your stuff for you.
*Though guides bring lamps for caving, bringing your own headlamps and flashlights will help illuminate the pitch dark chambers and may help prevent accidents.
*Be courteous, greet locals that you meet along the way.
*The municipality's packages are on a fixed price. Do not haggle anymore, the money that we pay them will be a big help to the locals.
*If you're traveling alone, or in a small group and you think you can't afford a certain package, inform the municipal's office so they can set you up with another group. It's also a good idea to ask fellow tourists from your hostel, they might be up for the same adventure!
*Respect the implemented curfew. Although tourists aren't really prohibited from walking around town in the evening, don't make any unnecessary loud noises - like shouting to call someone's attention (err, I can't state any other example, but I guess you know what this reminder means!).
*Make friends with locals! It's what cultural exchange is all about.

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Zamboanga City

I wish I wrote more about Zamboanga when I visited this city summer of 2006. Now I can barely remember the places we went and the people who hosted us (such a shame I am not in contact with them anymore). Thank goodness we took photos (otherwise Zamboanga will just be a distant memory)! Here's a few we took in the vibrant City of Flowers:


Pasonanca Park. One of the Boy Scout of the Philippines' training centers is located here. This park is renowned as a tourist attraction because of its three public pools and its picnic areas.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Don't Tell My Mother I'm In Basilan

It is unfortunate that only the brave can travel this part of the country. I wouldn't have dared too, if not for the Basileños I've befriended in Zamboanga. They said Basilan is not as dangerous as the media projects, so long as we stay away from certain unsafe, off-limits Abu Sayyaf areas. This was back in 2006. The month we visited, Khadaffy Janjalani was reported dead.

We took a fastcraft from Zamboanga to Isabela, Basilan (one hour). We were greeted by an insanely hospitable group of fishermen selling their fresh catch.

Can't believe I'm actually here!

We politely declined and walked to the other side of the pier where boats to Malamawi Island depart.

My kind hosts did not let me pay for anything, so I have no idea how much we paid for the boat ride. When we docked Malamawi's makeshift port, we hired motorcycles to get to the beach. I was surprised how beautiful their white beach is. I guess I was captivated by its charm of isolation. Admission fee is P10, small cottage P50, big cottage P200.

Left: Sending an SMS to the whole family, "I'm still alive." Right: Uber excited to take a dip!

While the others grilled our seafood (we bought from Malamawi White Beach Resort), I stripped down to my two-piece and everyone just gawked. I was terrified I did an illegal thing! One of my hosts laughed and said, "I think this is the first time they've seen someone in a bikini". I was relieved, but only did a quick dip since some guys started taking videos of me with their mobile phones.

Malamawi Island's White Beach.

After lunchtime, we headed back to mainland and I was introduced to another Basileño. In Lamitan, I met Toto, a cycling enthusiast who used to join small fashion shows and modeling contests alongside model/actor John Estrada (a Basileño himself). Toto said that my hosts were 'showing me off', not just showing me around. Apparently, one of them told him, "You gotta meet this sporty, suicidal Manileña".

Bulingan Falls, a 15-minute ride from Lamitan town.

He agreed to come with us to Bulingan Falls, where we spent our afternoon before catching the last fastcraft back to Zamboanga. We decided not to spend the night in town just to be safe.

I was able to know my hosts better while we were lazing by the falls. Most of them have never been outside of Basilan and Zamboanga, and the only other girl (aside from me) Karen, had a crush on Khadaffy Janjalani when they were still in school. Such a shame I don't have any form of contact with them now. It would be great to visit their hometown once more - and I might still not have enough guts to go by myself.

I hope more Filipinos would have the chance to see the humble beauty of Basilan, don't be afraid that 'breathtaking' might just be too literal.

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Kuala Lumpur-Clark

It all ends here. We traveled nonstop (with one bus change) from Bangkok to Kuala lumpur, a 21-hour trip. We stayed at Parham's place for two nights, and mostly spent our time indoors. We were weary. I was missing home and I can't wait to see my mom. I haven't seen her for eight months, or maybe longer than that.

This six-week Southeast Asia backpack trip (around 6 countries) will definitely be a big chunk of our memories. We have trekked treacherous jungle trails, sauntered along crowded and pristine beaches, eaten countless bowls of mee goreng and nasi goreng, washed laundry in every guesthouse we stayed in (I brought Surf powder), devised our own Asian sign language, been bitten by bedbugs, ripped off by a Burmese mob, been familiarized with different 7-11 goods of each Asian country, ridden numerous buses (and other modes of Asian transport), and met an eclectic mix of interesting backpackers and Asian locals.

We spent P49,773.425 each for everything, including four plane trips. I have documented all of our expenses - even toilet admissions: Malaysia 20 sen, Indonesia 2,000 Rp, Thailand 5 THB, Singapore 10 cents. We were ridiculously frugal. A lot of times we shared one meal (I also brought instant noodles and a small portable stove with pan), and we once walked three hours just to save up on 100 THB each for a taxi ride. We would take overnight bus rides to save up on accommodation. If we arrive in the wee hours of the morning, we would wait for public transport no matter how long so we need not take a cab.

It was definitely no leisure trip, but we enjoyed it to bits. We're poorer today but we'd definitely do it all over again!

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