Snapshot Saturday: The Tourist

Crashing a pictorial.
We were covered in sweat, panting. Wandering around Sri Lanka's Galle Fort with our heavy luggage was a terrible idea. I checked my watch. We got an hour left before our train departs for Colombo. On a distant grassy patch of the fort, a bunch of Sri Lankans were having a ball taking photos.

I dropped my backpack, handed the camera to Shervin, sprinted to the group and joined their snapshot session. To describe the outcome as 'rowdy' is an understatement.

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Old Phuket Town: Vintage Charm

Drop the word Phuket during a conversation with backpackers who haven't been to Thailand and there's a high probability that you'll get dreamy stares backed up with oohs and aahs from sun worshippers amongst the group. Phuket is indeed synonymous to tropical island cliches: Swaying coconut trees, white powdery sand, and lagoons from cyan to royal blue.

Thalang Road, old commercial center of Phuket Town. Gracefully aging shop houses lined the street.
But if you're like us who became peculiarly jaded of paradise after backpacking for five weeks around Southeast Asia, you might also be on the hunt for underrated gems, overshadowed by destinations heavily marketed by travel agencies. Like us, you're prolly browsing blogs by indie travelers and joining a Phuket forum to dig up something different.

A cafe decorated with interesting antique pieces.
And what a vintage charm we found! Our Phuket Town visit left us enchanted. We were lured to stay a day longer than planned. A stroll along Thalang, Dibuk and Krabi Road made us travel back in time when the Portuguese and British were in town not as soul searching travelers but as traders. The tin boom provided riches to merchants, locals and foreigner alike, hence people were able to afford European inspired mansions and shop houses more than a century ago.

Today admission to these structures are free. A lot of them are still shophouses, while some were converted to theme cafes, galleries and museums. The streets are far from bustling and are waiting for you, the off-the-beaten path traveler, to trudge on them soon.

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Mt. Cabuyao, Benguet: Into the Clouds

Not quite Mt. Pulag. But like other mountains in the Cordillera Region of the Philippines, Mt. Cabuyao at 2,025 meters above sea level, is almost constantly engulfed in a sea of clouds even on a clear summer day. Its renowned two discs called 'radar' by locals perched atop the peak, though gargantuan, could easily hide out of sight.

Approaching Mt. Cabuyao's peak.
It was the last week of January this year, I shivered as I walked up and down Session Road at six in the morn. Baguio was experiencing one of its coldest months of all time. The lowest temperature recorded that month was a freezing 9.6 degrees centigrade.

Amidst the darkness of dawn, I caught a glimpse of three figures strolling my way. It didn't take long for me to recognize who they were. Hearing one woman's boisterous laughter was enough for me to know.

I met up with my old mountaineering buddies. There's Christine of the Jovial Wanderer, Tristan, and his girlfriend Morena who I met for the first time. The previous night, the three just arrived in Baguio from Sagada. My family have been living in the city for almost three months already, but have not been outdoors much. So when I received their invite for a climb, even with a toe nail that completely chipped off which left me limping, I blurted a resounding yes.

Climbing Pinays rock! Me, Christine, and Morena. Somewhere off the paved trail.
We were soon on our way to the jump off point after a quick brekkie at Pizza Volante, one of the few food joints that's open early in the morn. It only took us one jeep ride to get to Green Valley from the city proper. The driver dropped us off at the end of his route.

I tied the knot of my handicapped toe's makeshift cast made of mesh ribbon tighter in preparation for the hike. It sure is a minor climb, but even walking on flat ground was burdensome for me. I was armed with a liter of water and an expectation that I could bum off trail food from the person who's got a stockpile of it, *cough* Christine *cough*. And so, we began our hike.

Bird's eye view of Marcos Highway.
Our pace was snail speed. No one was in a rush. It's been almost a year and a month since my last gruesome trek. I was then two months pregnant, and with the encouragement of my bacpacking-partner-slash-hubby I braved the seven falls of Mambukal in Murcia, Bacolod City.

So it's been a while. A very long while since I conquered a mountain. A very long while since I had that empowering feeling that can only be attained through summiting peaks. I relished every step. For every step represented a temporal freedom from the insane abyss of motherhood. And every step symbolized the courage to hold on to my individual self. Yes I am a mom, but I am also a mountaineer.

Benguet, into the clouds.
Though these random, abstruse thoughts were running in my head, I was merrily catching up with the group. And eating Christine's food. Being with them always makes me feel alive. Our hike (about 5 kilometers) lasted for almost two hours, snail speed remember? We intended to reach Mt. Sto. Tomas, the highest point in Baguio. But because of laziness a misunderstanding with locals (they told us we're already in Sto. Tomas, referring to the baranggay not the mountain) and dark clouds approaching, we all agreed to hike back once we have reached the two radio transmitters. We couldn't risk getting stuck up there in the rain for they were heading to Manila in the afternoon.

Plus, my hubby and then 4-month old infant (who was low on milk!) were locked out of the house and I had the keys. They waited for almost five hours for me to come home. The hubby's first words when I arrived, "Did you enjoy your climb?".

The backpacker mum savoring an infant-free morning.
Trip's Nitty Gritty:

1. How to get to Mt. Cabuyao/Mt. Sto. Tomas jump off: Jeeps to Green Valley at the time of our trip were parked along Shagem Street, between the streets of Abanao and Otek. Fare was about P15. Takes a while for the jeep to get packed.

2. Drive from Baguio City proper to Green Valley's about half an hour. Driver will drop you off at the end part of the jeep's route. Just follow the ascending paved road.

3. There's no admission fee collected.

4. If you feel like hitching a ride going down, there are few vehicles that do pass, mostly trucks or jeeps transporting newly harvested veggies.

5. Jeeps heading back to the city proper from the jump off point are rare. Ask for the schedule. Cabs are a few as well.


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Snapshot Saturday: River Rhine

It was autumn. The last leaves that clung to the trees' branches were multihued in earth shades, yet my visual of the River Rhine in Germany seemed monochromatic. Perhaps it was the temporal melancholy. Possibly homesickness. My first time overseas fours years ago was a hodgepodge of happy-sad emotions. In my head, a compass was there to get you thinking.

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Piedras Blancas, California: Seal Ville

The zigzagging segment of California's Highway 1 that ascends to Big Sur made me feel all snoozy, however, a nipping frigorific breeze that seeped through the sunroof kept me wide awake. My hubby, our 8-month old daughter and I were aboard our hired car en route to San Francisco from Los Angeles.

Half an hour ago, approaching the seaside village of Cambria, we read a sign: "Highway 1 closed". Shervin, though hesitant, kept driving anyway for the sign was annoyingly vague. "Highway closed at insert-name-of-town-here" would have been more helpful.

At Ragged Point Inn, San Simeon, we parked and Shervin asked the convenience store attendant about it after filling up our tank. She confirmed that the highway is indeed closed at some part of Big Sur, and that we had to backtrack a whopping 150 miles.

Nature's sweet reward. A colony of elephant seals, unwinding in their natural habitat.
Back in the car, Shervin said "Bad news, we gotta drive 150 miles to the next exit for our detour. Sorry you gotta deal with Luna (who hates being strapped in the infant seat) longer than expected." - which may have actually been "Darn, we wasted all that petrol?!". But hey, the coast where we cruised along had such gorgeous views, we never considered the drive as a waste of petrol nor time.

On our way back, Luna's tantrum finally died down. The cue for my siesta. As I was about to doze off, I caught a millisecond glimpse of a beach filled with seals. I jolted up and blinked my eyes so hard 'til they hurt. "I think I saw seals", I blurted out. Then I remembered an unassuming signage I saw earlier that says "elephant seals observation deck", or something to that effect. So it could be for real.

Be warned. It is illegal to feed, touch or disturb marine mammals.
I hung my head out the window to get a better view of the beach. When I saw seals again, I pleaded for Shervin to hurriedly pull over, whether it was allowed or not. He panicked. Well, you know, when I'm too excited I get all crazy and loud and I jump (imagine how I did that in the car!). Luckily, a parking lot adjacent to an actual observation boardwalk was just meters ahead.

Only three other cars were parked there. As I stepped out of the car, I can understand why. The wind was blistering cold even though it was mid-spring, bordering unbearable. We agreed to keep the little one in the car, which meant us taking turns in walking to and fro the boardwalk.

Molting season.
If only I wasn't so giddy about watching elephant seals in their natural habitat (or trying to find an awesome side trip to justify our long drive to nowhere), I would have just stayed in the vehicle too. I think it's also worth mentioning that the smell of seals can be an affront to the senses (or was it just the scent of the sea?). It slightly put me off, but since admission is free, I gave it a go.

Truth be told, I knew nothing about elephant seals, except that they're hunted for their oil. As I entered the boardwalk, I took a brochure and browsed it, my freezing brain struggled as it ingested the info. There were a few facts mentioned (which I wouldn't lecture you guys on cause you can easily Google stuff anyway), and it was promoting the conservation group Friends of the Elephant Seal.

Just me and the seals.
I was alone on the boardwalk. I smiled as I watched seals emerge from the water, crawl toward the colony and huddle with the others. Some were playing or probably fighting with each other, and a few were making roaring noises. Most of the seals were motionless, and just... chillin'. The whole scene's way better than watching a sea lion show at some zoo or theme park (which you probably will pay a hefty amount for). Best thing is, there won't be any kids around scrambling to be the next one to kiss and shake hands with the seal.

In less than ten minutes, I started walking back to the parking lot. It was Shervin's turn to realize that this accidental side trip's absolutely amazing!

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Snapshot Saturday: Postcard #1 Surfer's Paradise, Australia

G'day from Gold Coast, Australia! Remember what we mentioned on a post a month ago about sending a postcard to one reader each month? Well, we received such overwhelming response from you guys and let's just say we got a long, long list of addresses here!

So, to kick off The Postcard Project, we will be mailing two for this month! The recipient has already been chosen and will receive the postcard above.

It's not too late to join! Email your address to gaye.emami@yahoo.com. Recipients are chosen via Random.org.

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My 7 Links: Blast From The Past

A fellow Pinay travel blogger, Graciel of Pinay On The Move nominated me to participate in the My 7 Links Project. It's a brilliant project by Tripbase "to unite bloggers from all sectors to share lessons learned and create a bank of long but not forgotten blog posts that deserve to see the light of day again".

Pinay Travel Junkie's about to turn two years old, and this is an awesome way to cruise down blog memory lane! Here we go...


Most beautiful post:

The Travel Junkie Is Now a Nomad Mommy! - A very, very short post. The few readers who have been following my blog since the beginning would know that I started sharing adventures as a solo traveler, then as the other half of a backpacking duo (partner eventually became the hubby), and finally a nomadic mum. When I published this post I felt like I'm letting followers join me in a new chapter of my life. Kinda made my blog soap opera-ish, don't you think? Wow, this description is longer than the actual post!

Most popular post:

Philippine Passport Renewal: What Da Heck To Really Expect - Pretty popular thanks to Google.... With the search phrase "what does landmark mean on passport application?". Well, I'm glad to have answered that. Or did I?


Most controversial post:

Batanes' Culinary Celebrity: The Coconut Crab (or Don't Tell A Conservationist I Ate A Coconut Crab) - An article I wrote just a couple of days ago. I raved about eating a delish crab, which is uhm, a threatened species.

Most helpful post:

Backpacking With A Baby - May seem like self-punishment but could be the most rewarding thing. Shared some tips for backpacking mums.



A post whose success surprised me:

Backpacking Borneo: Bako National Park - I based this one on the number of views (I only placed the counter recently, so that's not really official) A national park in Sarawak, Borneo. Sarawak is not as popular as its BFF Sabah.


A post you feel didn’t get the attention it deserved:

Xi'an's Muslim Quarter - There's more to China than dumplings and temples, and the Great Wall. The Silk Road's Eastern Terminus is a myriad of cultures.


The post that you are most proud of:

The Preggy Traveler - Pregnancy should not be synonymous to confinement, and should not prevent you from achieving your dreams. If I can do it, so can you (granting you're a woman)!


There you have it folks! And now, I nominate these awesome bloggers to My 7 Links:

1. Nina of Just Wandering
2. Lois and ChiChi of Sole Sisters
3. Marky of Nomadic Experiences
4. Chyng of No Spam, No Virus, No Kidding!
5. Alice of Bread & Honey


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Batanes' Culinary Celebrity: The Coconut Crab (or Don't Tell A Conservationist I Ate A Coconut Crab)

The guffawing has ceased. After a death-defying falowa ride, and a whirlwind trip of Sabtang Island in the morning, we were all famished. And I was prepared to shove anything edible inside my mouth.

But of course, we got class. Or so we posed as such. We were an entourage of seven, six of us won an all expense paid trip to Batanes via an online contest, and were led by province maven Engineer Joseph Dy (I seriously thought he's Ivatan).

We appeared to be patiently waiting with our uneasy smiles while we snapped countless photos of our hut by Morong Beach where several other groups of travelers dined. As the dishes were served one at a time, we took more photos while craning our necks toward the kitchen, wondering what else will end up on our table.

Coco loco! Coconut crab steamed in coconut sauce.
The seaweed soup arrived first, then the adobo and veggies (which was sauteed onion leaves), then steamed fish and breaded squid, and finally the star of our lunch... the coconut crab, also called 'tatus' (and Birgus latro if you're into scientific names).

My knowledge of the coconut crab was scant, though it was my second Batanes visit. I only knew of the local delicacy dibang or flying fish the first time I went, and loved it. With a hefty price of P600-P1,000 per kilo, I thought the coconut crab better prove its worth.

It looks more like a gigantic bug lobster than a crab. I picked a pincer from the plate and peered closer. I bit off its white flesh sticking out and savored the taste. The coconut crab is named so because it does feed on coconuts (its mighty claws could open a coconut shell). However it does not taste like it, perhaps because apart from coconuts, it also feeds on other fruits and animal carcasses. It is also not as sweet as the common crab, but more tasty than the lobster. In a seafood-y kind of tasty if you know what I mean.

My second bite was followed by a spoonful of turmeric rice. A perfect match. After which I sipped its simple coconut sauce which did not overpower the crustacean, and highlighted its flavor instead.

So did I like it? Let's just say I might (me considering the possibility already means a lot!) ride a falowa again just to have another serving someday. But surely, I can order somewhere else on the island of Batan, yeah? And by the way, its melt-in-your-mouth fat (the aligue) that can be scooped from its abdomen is to die for! Literally and metaphorically. Man, it's got heaps of cholesterol that could do you some serious harm.

Batanes food made us jump with joy (even with our heavy bellies)! Dios mamajes Engr. Dy for this fun photo. Taken at Morong Beach.
Pinay Travel Junkie Trivia: This is officially my first (and maybe last) jump shot on this site. Another trivia: The coconut crab is under the conservation status 'threatened'. Not proven as endangered yet. Even so, after all that I've said and done... Awkwaaard.

Okay, so here's the real deal: As per our guide Engineer Dy who posted a comment below, "There are regulations in place in Batanes to help protect the species. Coconut crab can only be consumed locally and cannot be brought out of the province in any form (live/raw or cooked)." So there. Don't even think of sneaking some bits of the crab aboard your flight!


I got one more reason to jump for!

I finally joined the Pinoy Travel Bloggers Group Blog Carnival. And this is actually my official entry. The theme for July 2011 is "Awesome Food Experience While Traveling In The Philippines", hosted by Anton Diaz of Our Awesome Planet.




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Snapshot Saturday: Postcard Perfect

A lone windmill, slumbering during sunset.
A remote farming town in Groningen, the northeastern most province of Netherlands. A late afternoon spent watching the sun set, and sheep as they lazily stroll by the dikes.

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North Burleigh, Gold Coast: The Search For Summer

The warmth of the midday sun’s rays pierced through my skin. I was way pleased to finally shed off my extra layer of garb. Australia's halfway through winter, and there we were striding towards the beach in North Burleigh, searching for summer... Or its vibe at least.

I surveyed the vast expanse of the shore, and could count the people with my fingers and toes. It was lean season no doubt. And I wondered how many of them are like us, vagabonding and taking advantage of the low season's cheap holiday deals.

The search is over.
Due to the absence of sunscreen, we bleakly stepped out of the sand after quarter of an hour and onto the paved path of the adjacent park to retrieve my flip flops and the hubby's shoes.

Luna's fourth beach!
We sat on the grass under a tree nearby. I watched our daughter Luna crawl, roll over, and almost eat grass. And every so often, she would wriggle her toes because she could still feel the particles of sand in between them. I was flushed with delight. Less than a week into our big (possibly RTW) trip and she's already discovering things on her own.

When we were about to leave, I swept my eyes from the sapphire blue sea to the cream colored shore to The Esplanade. The presence of asphalt roads and tall buildings does not give North Burleigh's beach a tropical hideaway aura, yet I am attracted to it.

It's just our first destination, and already I have a candidate for our future home address... If and when we decide to end our "settling around".

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Snapshot Saturday: Boys On The Bridge

These Indian boys huddled with me for a photo while their mums on the balcony look on.
We walked about five kilometers, and were on our way to the bus stop from Gandhi Memorial Museum when a group of boys ran toward us asking for a pen. We replied we don't have any. Shervin and I didn't question what it's for and I asked for a photo with them instead.

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