Thursday, October 27, 2011

Al Ain Desert Day Jaunt: The Uninvited Pinay

Our four-wheel drive vehicle jounced along, raising dense clouds of russet dust in our wake. I hardly spoke to Shervin since we left U.A.E. University. Well, except for a few whispered one-liners. That trip exuded an uneasy vibe. The apathetic-bordering-hostile treatment I received made me feel almost unwelcome. Even though I felt like going home, the fearless Filipina in me persuaded me not to.

Nobody asked me to leave anyway...

The usual desert safari mishap.

Three years ago, when the hubby and I were still steadies, we joined a desert safari organized by a bunch of Emirati I.T. uni students. They invited their professors in U.A.E. University for a weekend day jaunt, and though Shervin was a research lab assistant, they asked him to come along as well.

They dubbed the event "Family Day". And as its name suggested, the professors brought their families with them. Shervin and his Indian research lab partner Chandan turned up at the meeting place, a parking lot across one of the uni buildings, with Shervin's dad (who happened to be visiting from Iran) and me in tow.

First order of business, reducing tire pressure.

I counted about three other females. None of them older than ten. It dawned on me that family day in some (if not all) Middle East countries, basically pertains to the get together of the families' male members. And in this particular case, a few preadolescent daughters.

Families were grouped into four and were assigned respective 4x4s. Shervin, his dad and I were whisked to our vehicle and were introduced to the student on the wheel. And before driving out of the uni grounds, another student hopped in the passenger seat. He's uhm, the heir to the section of the desert we were visiting.

Shervin's dad clinging onto the door handle and his son's leg while the vehicle was tilted in a 45° angle, which I don't think can save him in case we flip over.

A few minutes into the ride, a ball of conversation rolled. I was excluded from the exchange of introductions. And I took that as a hint to remain silent. Cause you know, I'm not the type who'd say "Ahem, ahem. Ana Gay (I am Gay).", without being asked. It kind of felt unfair because amongst the three of us non-Emiratis, I spoke the most Arabic words and phrases.

For a day, I was an interpreter. Actually more like, eavesdropper-slash-informer, for our hosts either spoke between themselves or on the phone with the other students driving.

Milk freshly squeezed from the camel's bosom.

As soon as we screeched off the paved road and into the vast desert, the vehicles parked for tire pressure reduction. Such procedure shall give tires a bigger surface area, which helps reduce the downward pressure of the 4x4 on the sand. Nearby, Emirati lads who popped out of sandy nowhere and who were seemingly on an ATV race, paused to watch.

In a matter of minutes, we were bashing dunes. And it was more exhilarating than I expected. I suppressed the urge to shriek like a cowering passenger on a roller coaster, and held my newly purchased DSLR tight (yes, a fruit of my OFW stint). The wild ride lasted for almost half an hour. How exhausted I was from all that stress. Just imagine yourself on a roller coaster doing continuous rounds for the same amount of time, not entirely fun right?

The corner where "the lady" was asked to sit in.

Sometime in the middle of the dune bashing and settling in the picnic area that was set for us, we passed by a mini camel farm where we had a taste of freshly squeezed camel milk. It didn't taste bad, but the foam on top of the milk smelt too camel-y. You know, that type of odor that reminds you of a farm, but not in a fond way.

Hence, I was looking forward to our late afternoon tea. I needed to shoo the memory of its scent away. But come tea time, I was not served tea. We assumed it was against their customs. So I munched on local pastries instead while the students and their professors prayed in the tent.

And it was all golden.

After which, they all joined us at the screen-fenced sitting area. One of the professors requested, "Can the lady please sit in the corner so we can extend the sitting room?". And so I did.

The students laid plastic sheets on the ground to serve as placemats for the gigantic platters of food. Each platter contained a mountain of fried rice, vegetables and one whole roasted sheep. The desert safari experience surely left everyone famished. As soon as the food hit the plastic mats, we all dug in. No individual plates, no cutlery. We ate with our hands in a communal platter, exactly how the former nomads did just a few decades ago. The Egyptian professor beside me offered the "best bits" and pulled ligaments here and there and chucked them to my side of the platter. So sweet.

A blurry image I was initially fearful to take a snapshot of.

Tea was once again served as the diners concluded their meals. I was served tea this time and learned that the bloke probably just didn't feel like serving me. Emirati men are generally friendly (I know this oh so well for I worked as a hotel receptionist in Al Ain) but too prim when they're with the elders. This could also be the reason why they acted as if I didn't exist. A behavior so different from what I had gotten used to, like random Emiratis calling out "Kamusta ganda" (how are you beautiful)" to me as I strolled along deserted streets.

The water from the buckets in the makeshift comfort room was limited, and there was no soap. Shervin's dad's solution to our sticky fingers was to rub them in sand. It amazingly worked, though cannot get rid of the smell. And believe me, you would want to get rid of that.

The happy, shiny gate crasher.

As the breeze became nippy, we clambered into our four-wheelers for the last time. The vehicles queued for a convoy. Finding one's way out of the desert is never an easy task, especially in total darkness.

No more dune bashing this time. Just a calm cruise toward the city lights.


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Monday, October 24, 2011

Madurai, India: Meenakshi Amman Temple

Waking up to the smell of fresh bread whether it's just been pulled out of the oven or fished from a frying pan, is my ideal morning (it used to be garlic fried rice but I guess that's the effect of constant displacement on me). Pair that with the aroma of brewed tea with milk, and I'm in brekkie heaven.

Our nostrils were beckoned.

Shervin and I emerged from our room, cautious not to disturb anyone slumbering. We were couchsurfing at a Sudanese's home in Madurai (one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities). Bakri, our host, offered us his bedroom. He, and his friends who came over the eve before for a PlayStation all-nighter, slept in the living area.

Meenakshi Amman Temple complex, view from a nearby shop's rooftop.

Surprisingly, at half past seven in the morning, everyone was up. We walked to the kitchen where we heard a hushed chatter. The entire gang was there, including the two Danish couchsurfers Thea and Camilla who were occupying Bakri's housemate's bedroom. We sat on the floor and joined the getting-to-know-you conversation.

Sweet morning delight.

When Bakri finished working the stove, we all moved to the dining area and laid newspapers on the table to use as placemats. Us guests sat and excitedly waited for brekkie to be served. Our meal consisted of omelette with onions and a type of sweet Sudanese bread (pardon me Bakri if I keep forgetting the name) that's got a falafel texture, except it ain't made from fava beans nor chickpeas. Its texture also sorta resembles that of Lil Orbits Mini Donuts' (remember them?), except it's got the shape of an obese que-kiam. The whole bunch of bread was dusted with powdered sugar.

A backdrop depicting the old and the new.

Unmindful of the calorie and sucrose overload, all of us ate with much gusto (we needed heaps of energy anyway) while Bakri gave instructions on how to get to our destination via public transport. Soon after we finished our nth helping, we cleaned the table and grabbed our day packs. We headed to the bus station on foot, Bakri led the way.

Herds and herds of pilgrims pouring into the halls.

Thea and Camilla agreed to join us for a couple of tourist spots. We bid farewell to our gracious host as we hopped on the bus. Our ride took almost twenty minutes, and only cost us 7 INR. The conductor gestured us to alight at our stop.

Approaching the temple complex, we were swarmed by touts and self-appointed guides. We managed to get rid of them except one. We let the most persistent guy who promised a "very nice view of temple from rooftop" lure us to The Museum Company, a shop that sells local textiles, furniture and trinkets. We were well aware of such scam, but curiosity got the better of us.

A dry Porthamarai Kulam (pond with the golden lotus).

The view from the rooftop of the three-storey shop, actually, didn't disappoint. And the shopkeeper didn't have to bug us with his sales pitch because Thea bought a decor to hang on a Christmas tree (she's collecting Christmas tree ornaments from around the world). I too purchased a couple of cheap stuff, a paper mache jewelry box for my grandma and a wooden bookmark for Luna to use someday. The shopkeeper's mood immediately changed from indifferent to giddy. He let us leave our shoes in the shop, and he lent Shervin a sarong to wrap around his legs for he was wearing shorts.

A parade of multihued saris.

Out of the shop and into the complex we went. At the gates, men and women separately passed through the guards, sometimes frisked. Bags were inspected. Visitors with ciggies were reminded not to smoke inside. Everyone should be barefoot beyond this point.

Meenakshi Amman Temple is a 16th century architectural marvel. Its twelve gopurams (gateway towers) are carved with a gamut of gods, goddesses and heavenly bodies. All of which, colorfully painted. Inside the temple complex, you'll find yourself in a labyrinth of halls with different shrines.

Even a robotics engineer with a smidgen of spirituality asked for an elephant blessing. For uhm, 10 INR.

Everywhere we turned, there were devotees praying. Or taking photos of us with their mobile phones. Locals smiled a whole lot, and we smiled back at each one of them. We felt more exhausted smiling than strolling along the vast expanse of the temple grounds.

My spiritual conquest failed due to the fact that we were never left alone. And poor tall-blonde-and-beautiful (and I bet Ms. Photogenic) Thea had to pose every so often, as requested by her admirers. We only lasted for an hour inside the complex.

A young lady rockin' my sunnies, which she borrowed after we were photographed together.

We searched with great difficulty for the exit. And ironically, found peace outside the walls. We sat to collect ourselves. I heaved a sigh. That was just the first of the four sights we're visiting for the day.



Thank You, India Series:

Aboard India's Modes of Transport
Arrival Turned Fans Day
Thank You, India
How To Apply For An India Tourist Visa In The Philippines

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Saturday, October 22, 2011

Snapshot Saturday: Postcard #7 Nimbin, New South Wales


It's day 122 of our our round-the-world trip, and we're back in Gold Coast, Queensland. I am already missing Byron Bay, but I also missed (way more than expected) walking around a mall so that's what we did first thing yesterday at Surfers Paradise. In a week, we'll be heading to Sydney once again and will soon be flying out.

After a month of settling down in an awesome cabin by the beach, we now find intermittent relocation a bit daunting. And it's just gonna get crazier the following weeks, so we gotta brace ourselves. I got a ginormous surprise for you guys too (it's the reason why should be back in Sydney) but will unveil it at the right time.

Meanwhile, here's the next postcard for the The Postard Project. Photo taken inside Nimbin Museum. Nimbin is the capital of the "Rainbow Region" of Australia. It's even hippy-er than Byron Bay, and its a place where cannabis is part of the culture. Currently a very popular tourist attraction, not bad for a town that used to solely depend on dairy farming.

It's not too late to join! Email your address to gaye.emami@yahoo.com. Recipients are chosen via Random.org.


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Monday, October 17, 2011

Largo Do Senado: And The Family Chaos Continues

He was missing when we all hobbled out of our beds. Despite slumping into a coma late, my father awoke early. He was suffering from a terrible case of diarrhea, acquired days before flying out of the Philippines, yet his meekly obedient feet submitted to the command of the travel bug in him. He wandered by himself at the crack of dawn.

Rarely deserted Largo Do Senado. Early, rainy morn.

The whole family just flew in the night before (remember how insane that went?). We only had three days to explore as much of Macau as we could (which some would probably say is too long but I consider just enough), so we intended to start our day early. But you know, not when the world still barely exists. Like six in the morning in a place considered as a gambling capital.

Macau Business Tourism Centre

Also accustomed to her rural hometown's business hours, my mum felt like walking around too and dragged me out of the room to accompany her. I sluggishly strolled, following her footsteps. She was perplexed to see all the establishments on Rua da Felicidade closed, enjoyed nonetheless our peaceful saunter, except for my intermittent whining and in passing told-you-so comments.

The closest they can get to Europe. For now.

My father was finally back from his lone rambling when we arrived at the hostel. And soon after the whole gang trooped to Largo Do Senado, just a few blocks away. First order of business, brekkie. After an unsatisfying dinner (at least for my parents) the night before, we ordered something familiar. Familiar with a twist. Like Sausage and Egg Cheesy Tasty Pasta at McDonald's. It's basically a burger patty and fried egg in sopas (macaroni soup), topped with cheese. It amazingly won my parents' approval. Won the approval of our pockets as well.

Beef jerky, a must-buy.

Armed with maps grabbed from the tourist information booth at the airport, we made our way to the Ruins of St. Paul's. With difficulty. Not because we got lost (alleys are clearly marked with directions) but because we had to pull our mum away from the shops. Our walk lasted for almost an hour. Mum entered every store along the way that offered free beef jerky tasting.

One of Macau's most famous landmarks.

I reckon she had more fun eating jerkies than being photographed in front of St. Paul's façade, for that was all she talked about while we were waiting for her more pumped up husband who climbed up the steel stairway to the top of the façade. And because of my mum's hour-long window shopping, we spent only a few minutes at this 16th century complex. We signalled our father who was poking his head out of the church's window to come down.

Isabella, one of the flicks filmed in Sanva Hospederia, where we stayed for a night. Saw its promo poster hanging on the wall of the hostel's lobby.

It was only ten. We went back to our hostel so we could check out. Time to move my folks to a better accommodation, something a couple of retirees (whose olden days bled one into the next) truly deserve.

Boy, were they in for a surprise.


Macau Series: Meet My Backpacking Folks

Meet My Backpacking Folks
Century-Old SanVa Hospederia

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Saturday, October 15, 2011

Snapshot(s) Saturday: Ti Tree Lake


While our fellow sun worshippers contentedly basked on Tallow Beach and body surfed the erratic waves, we searched for a lesser known work of Mother Nature. A mere fifteen-minute stroll from our cabin in Suffolk Beachfront Holiday Park, brought us to Ti Tree Lake.


Tea Tree Lake, as some would spell it, is no ordinary lake. The lake and its surrounding area is a sacred site to the Bundjalung women, and was used as a birthing place. It was off limits to the men.


From its marker on the edge of Hayter Street in Suffolk Park, there's no trail through the bush to the lake (we looked for one, but to no avail). But if you access Tallow Beach via McGregor Street like we do, walk fifteen minutes southward along the shore. This gorgeous, amber-hued body of water is visible from the beach.


The lake's edge is shallow and is safe for toddlers. And I must say, Luna got a little too ecstatic here.


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Thursday, October 13, 2011

Oktoberfest, Munchen: Inebriated, Inevitably

"Dees ees your dream, ja? Aaktoberrfest.", his query was more of a confirmation.
"Uhm, ja. Very big dream.", I admitted, though a bit taken aback.


The crowd was raucous, I barely heard him. The air smelt of alcohol, roasted chicken and grilled sausages. Tent waitresses donning the dirndl sashayed up and down the aisles carrying six to eight gigantic mugs in one go. A band set a merry mood, and it didn't matter what they played. Cause you know, the inebriated kind of audience ain't picky at all.

Prost! Man, that mug weighs tons.

I confronted my aunt when her German boyfriend, Willi, left for the men's room. Apparently, she told him about my life-long (okay maybe not that long) obsession with Oktoberfest, and my dream of attending the real thing. But hey, that's not to say that the knock off event we got back home in and of itself isn't awesome.

Somebody pinch me!

According to my aunt, he offered to drive even for four hours from their small town Zorn (where they took me in for a month) in Hessen to Munich just so I could fulfill this insane dream of mine. Not only that, so my aunt could witness such conspicuous annual event as well because she has never been to one even after fifteen years of residence in the country.

I'm totally sober. How many fingers? Three.

This was 2007. My first ever overseas trip that covered five countries in Europe, much thanks to my aunt who helped me shoulder some expenses after I spent my lifetime savings for a mere two weeks in Amsterdam. If only I had more dibs I could have also backpacked in Portugal to see its historical villages, Spain to experience Benidorm holidays, Italy to ride a gondola, and Greece to visit its islands. Don't get me wrong, I'm not really whining. Guess what I'm trying to say is that even while I was still there, I was already fantasizing (and still am) to return someday with a vengeance. And with lots of cash.


But for all I know that could be my first and last time to chug in an Oktoberfest tent, so yeah, I made the most out of our two-hour stay. Sorry to disappoint you (and pardon me if the title suggested it), but no hilarious accounts about drunkenness here for I only had a Maßkrug (one liter mug) of beer. That, and a humongous brezn (pretzel) were the only stuff I could afford anyway.

Let's all do the Sha-la-la! Did I not mention that the audience ain't picky at all?

This fest did not start as a marketing ploy of Munich breweries, but as a wedding 201 years ago. Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen in October, 1810 and Munich's locals were invited to the after party. The folks must have loved such shindig that they decided to make it an annual event, and well, the rest as they say is history. Fest starts from the latter half of September up to the first Sunday of October, and doesn't really reach the actual date of the wedding (12th) because the schedule was pushed earlier for a more congenial weather.

19th century statue, Bavaria.

Beer tents may be the main attraction, but the carnival rides and game booths draw heaps of visitors too. When we walked passed them, we already had our drinks. Hence, we had no intention to try the rides. I couldn't even begin to imagine what happens to those who get woozy from alcohol plus a ride on the dizzying Frisbee Carousel.

Amongst Bierleichen or beer corpses (passed out drunks).

Perhaps they also end up on the grassy clearing around the Bavaria statue (if they make it there at all) where everyone chooses to retire and sleep off their intoxication. And where we decided to lie down when my aunt's feet started getting blisters after walking the vast expanse of Theresienwiese (Oktoberfest field) in her high heeled boots.

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Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Luna, La Union: Hitching A Ride With An Infant

After an hour and a half long battle with nausea, I was defeated. For the first time in ages, I threw up in the bus. I could not even recall when was the last time such thing happened. Mind you, I've been on countless buses, boats and even a habal-habal when I had a baby bump last year. And every ride, I won the battle.

Suffice it to say that Naguilian Road could be a killer. That, or the maniacal bloke driving the bus.

Shrine of Our Lady of Namacpacan in St. Catherine of Alexandria Church in Luna. A trike driver suddenly entered the frame and posed for me.

I am fond of weaving through the mountains, but not when the vehicle morphs into a roller coaster coach. Oh how I rejoiced when we finally alighted in San Juan, La Union. My equally dizzy hubby, who was lugging four-month old Luna, trudged alongside me.

Geared up for traveling with an infant. My must-haves (aside from formula and nappies): Disinfectant and mosquito net.

We walked aimlessly for a couple of minutes. It was mid-January. After the hectic Yule season, we were looking forward to de-stressing holidays, away from the extended family and somewhere warm (we had been living in Baguio for almost three months). Because it was lean period, there was no need to book an accommodation.

Hacienda Peter Beach Resort, home for a night.

Neither did I search for cheap options online. Our mindless feet led us to Hacienda Peter Beach Resort. Okay, we were actually on our way to the multihued Lola Nanny's Guesthouse, but was sidetracked and eventually lured by the cheery owner of the former. An P800 double fan room is not how I define cheap accommodation, but its beachfront location makes it a steal.

He-who-does-not-want-to-be-named-but-agreed-to-be-photographed.

The room, as expected, was basic but clean. The bed was inviting and could have been an aid in nursing my headache, but we got plans for the afternoon. An inquiry about public transportation to Luna paved the way for an opportunity to hitch a ride.

Owner: Punta kayo ng Luna? Dun nyo ba ipinangalan anak nyo? (You're heading to Luna? Was your baby named after that place?)

Me: Opo, paano po pumunta dun? At hindi po dun galing pangalan ni Luna (Yes, how do we get there? And no, she wasn't named after that place.)

Owner: Sakay na lang kayo sa kanya (pointing at the guy she was seemingly doing business with). Papunta sya ng Ilocos Sur. (Why don't you just hitch a ride with him? He's on his way to Ilocos Sur.)

On the front steps of the Abad-Lopez ancestral house.

We didn't have to ask. Kuya, who sold fire extinguishers to San Juan resorts, offered us a lift. Stories were exchanged as soon as we hopped in his van. Kuya is a semi-retired businessman, buying and selling random stuff. And for some reason, he is particularly interested with our uhm, love story.

Kuya asked for my camera and directed us to pose here and there.

About fifteen minutes into our ride, like a true-blue hospitable Filipino, he invited us to his home. What are the odds of hitching a ride with someone who owns an ancestral house (which by the way ain't open to the public)? So of course we said yeah! Kuya happens to be part of the prominent Lopez-Abad clan of San Juan. And he was more than happy to show us their beautiful home.

The town's humble welcome.

The original house was built around 1885 and was remodeled to its present structure in 1951. Not only is the house old, also its furniture and interior decor. It was truly an honor to be guided by one of the owners himself. We had a grand time. And as if that wasn't enough act of kindness, instead of dropping us off the junction, he told us he'll take us all the way to our destination because Luna's asleep. He reasoned that a bumpy tricycle ride will wake her up.

St. Catherine of Alexandria Church in the middle of Luna's town center.

He dropped us off in front of the church, and waved farewell as he drove away. Joel, a fellow blogger who was then on a visita iglesia (aiming to visit a million Northern Luzon churches in six days - okay just about thirty or something), popped out of nowhere and greeted us with his beaming smile. Together, we did a quick tour of the church.

Surprisingly massive, contradicting its unassuming facade.

The statue of the Blessed Virgin enshrined here was to be delivered by a galleon from Mexico to Vigan, Ilocos Sur. The galleon redirected to Luna because of uncooperative weather. The statue was temporarily placed in a convent near the church of Namacpacan (Namacpacan is the old name of the town, and was changed to Luna in honor of the Luna brothers) for a night. The next morning, it can no longer be moved and the Augustinian priests felt this was a sign for it to stay. Interesting story, ei?

Luna back in San Juan from our Luna visit.

After we got out of the church, we dined in a carinderia where I had the best dinuguan ever. My day progressed from bad to okay to awesome. It was only early afternoon, but already, the horrific bus ride that morning was a distant memory.

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Saturday, October 8, 2011

Snapshot Saturday: Postcard #6 Cape Byron Lighthouse, New South Wales


It's day 109 of our our round-the-world trip, and we only got a couple of weeks left to make the most out of our temporal residence in Suffolk Park. It's been a glum spring the past few days. So as soon as the sun peeked through the gainsboro clouds, we jumped in our beat up, borrowed car dubbed Gumby and sped off.

After a month of driving in and out of Byron Bay, for the first time, Shervin took us to the lighthouse. And as you could see, that's where we took a snapshot of the next postcard for the The Postard Project. This lighthouse built in 1901, is Australia's most powerful. It sits on Cape Byron, the most easterly point of the country's mainland.

We intended to wait for the sunset, but called it a day when we felt our tummies rumble. Good that we did, for Gumby broke down while we were rolling down hill. We didn't have to be stuck late evening in the middle of bush nowhere, waiting for NRMA to rescue us (this totally deserves a separate post).

It's not too late to join! Email your address to gaye.emami@yahoo.com. Recipients are chosen via Random.org.


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Thursday, October 6, 2011

Sinhala New Year: Of Firecrackers And Fireflies

... Drumbeats too.

My husband and I strike without plans. When we arrived at Sri Lanka's Bandaranaike International Airport in Katunayake last April, we had no idea that the country was celebrating Sinhala New Year. We only found out when a cab driver told us that there were no public buses in service for it was a holiday. It was a lie, of course.

Photo credit: Think Like Malinga

We were able to take the free shuttle to Katunayake's main terminal, where we boarded a bus to Kandy. We thankfully reached our Couchsurfing host's home effortlessly via hired tuktuk (which our host booked himself). And after a two-hour nap, with no intention of idling, we winged the bustling Temple of The Tooth.

At dusk, we headed back to the house, and found a group of locals playing bongo/djembe-like percussions and singing just across the road. It was beautiful, but we decided to just watch from afar. Well, more like listened than watched. Because we couldn't see a thing that starless eve.


I chased fireflies and danced to the beat of world music. And sprinted away from kids chucking fireworks at random bystanders. I'm not really into welcoming the new year with a bang, especially if that bang could possibly incapacitate me.

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Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Travel Blogging 101

I am more of a backpacker than a blogger, if you know what I mean. Some days I think I creatively write, and most days I throw a tantrum because of that annoying thing called writer's block. Pardon the title, but this post is actually not some kind of travel blogging tutorial.


Last month, Lai Marie of Pinay Travelista who was assigned to give a talk on such topic for the IBS Blogging 101 Seminar in Iligan (Philippines), asked me and a bunch of fellow bloggers this question: "What's one thing (or a golden rule) you wish someone told/taught you about travel blogging when you started out?"

It got me pondering. When Pinay Travel Junkie gained a sort of teeny cult following (which mainly consisted of friends), I became cautious about how I write. And sadly, it sucked the fun out of writing. So it dawned on me that the technicalities, protocols and whatnot of blogging is something I could - or more like, should do without. Otherwise, I'd snap in a not so good way.


So yeah, I think with regard to blogging, gaiety is the best policy. At least for a quasie-hippie mum like me.

Lai asked if I could answer the question in a video. I did. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to submit it on time. So here you go! Thanks heaps to Erwin for helping me out with the editing.

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Monday, October 3, 2011

Fisherman’s Wharf, San Francisco: Clam Chowder In A Bread Bowl Please!

To admit that we headed to San Francisco for the primary purpose of slurping and gobbling clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl for lunch may cause a few raised eyebrows and exaggerated gasps... But uhm, it's the truth. Not to see the Golden Gate Bridge nor the cable cars, but to have that hearty concoction of seafood-y goodness.

Overcast spring day in San Francisco.

For a non-foodie like the husband, it's something that he could scarcely fathom - but was forced agreed to do a sort of ridiculously long scenic drive from Sacramento to Los Angeles through San Francisco anyway so I'd shush. You see, that's what you call, for the love of food (and well, for the love of the wife).

One of San Francisco's icons.

Earlier that morning, we were in Sacramento bidding a bittersweet goodbye to my Persian extended in-laws. We just spent a three-day holiday in their wonderful home. The hubby's cousin reaffirmed us as we hopped in our rented car that our decision to do a detour's nothing short of fantastic. We took off. And like tons of other tourists in the U.S., we entrusted our fate to the ingenious GPS.

Souvenir shops aplenty near the wharf.

It didn't fail to take us to the destination we punched in. We amazingly found a parking slot not so distant from the wharf. After feeding coins to the parking meter, I seemingly drifted afloat, sniffing and tracing where the fishy aroma was coming from. Hubby, who defines "seafood" as canned tuna (and occasionally smoked salmon in a westernized sushi roll), didn't look like an enthusiastic chap. What I call fishy aroma, he calls fishy stench. And when I say clam chowder, he flinches.

Hello, love.

My unleashed excitement and rumbling tummy made me buy the soup from the first seafood stand we saw. It was $5 a bread bowl. We found a small space on a table nearby which we shared with fellow die-hard seafood Asian fans. Because of the spring chill, the clam chowder was no longer piping hot when I slurped. But it didn't disappoint. It was flavorful, thick but smooth, and it's got heaps of clam flesh. I fed Luna (who thankfully at eight months old didn't show any allergic reaction to it), and eventually the hubby. And they both loved it!

Musee Mecanique, or Mechanical Museum.

Soup was gone in a flash. The bread bowl, not so much for it was a bit stale. We lazily rambled around once we were done with our late lunch. Fisherman's Wharf is the home of San Francisco's fishing fleet, since the days of the Gold Rush. It's fascinating to know that descendants of the fishermen from that era could still be present and are engaged in the same livelihood.

Awesome collection!

Since I got all these fish-y thoughts running in my head, stumbling upon the Mechanical Museum seemed odd to me. Perched on the edge of Pier 45, it just looked a bit too random for the area. Since the admission's free, we curiously stepped in.

Laughing Sal, terrified entertained kids and grown ups at Playland at the Beach from 1940-1972.

True to its description by the entrance, the collection's massive. I couldn't even begin pinpointing the ones that I liked because there were heaps of them. While some are cool, others are just plain creepy. Like Laughing Sal and The English Execution. We didn't spend our precious pennies on the machines though and chose to erm, wait for fellow tourists to insert coins in the slots, then watch.

Vintage photo booth.

However, we did pay for snapshots taken in an old photo booth. The cost was almost the same as the clam chowder we just had, but it's something I've always wanted to do since I was young. For fun, not for actual ID picture purposes.

Uhm, if only I could remember where I kept this.

What a marvelous way to cap off our side trip. And I'm not just referring to the photo booth thingy but also to the quick shopping we did after. Might as well right? After all, that was one long detour.

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