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Photo Essay: Floating Islands Of The Uros, Lake Titicaca, Peru

What drives you to a far-flung land (or water)?

A gripping tale delivered by a stranger you met ‘on the road’? A stunning snapshot that you can’t take out of your mind? A documentary that left you awe-inspired? A history or geography lesson that stuck with you? A cheeky souvenir from an old  fling’s backpacking trip?

A ’90s animation series entitled Beavis and Butthead?

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Boat made of dried reed (balsas mats).

“Stigmatatata from Lake Titicaca!”, Beavis ‘The Great Cornholio’.

“Stigmatatata from Lake Titicaca!”, Beavis ‘The Great Cornholio’. Beavis’ voice annoyingly rang in my ears while our packed tour boat glided on the Peruvian side of  “the highest navigable lake in the world” under threatening clouds. It was day 217 of our 2011-2012 round-the-world trip.

Although the teenage dream of seeing Lake Titicaca didn’t start off as some scholarly pursuit, the actual journey realized almost a decade after was enriching.  And to be cliche, magical.

I felt like I won a pass to a movie set. But it was all real.

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Just day two in Puno, and already out and about. Down with the altitude sickness. And no coca (known for its psychoactive alkaloid, cocaine) tea could cure it.

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Tour groupmates flocked the boat’s deck for a 360 view.

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Each tour group is assigned to one or two islands so as business is distributed among the Uros.

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Docked at an artificial island named Cantuta and met the island’s leader, Ana. The pre-Incan people Uros are the residents of Lake Titicaca’s floating islands.  Why the hassle of building artificial ones?

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Initially, so that they can be moved when a community’s under threat. Cause yeah, why not take your land with you on an exodus?!

Ana and our guide demonstrated how an island is built. It’s made of totora reeds which grow in the same lake.  Interwoven and piled in layers, and tethered to the bottom of the lake. Isla Cantuta’s about two meters thick, and uses fifteen anchors to keep it in place. A new layer of totora is added about four times a year because reeds at the bottom of the island rot in time.

titicaca8While all that talk was going on, we were given reed (surprise, surprise) for our morning snack. The white bottom of the reed is called chullo, a good source of iodine (can also be used for other medicinal purposes). Aside from reed, the Uros feed on fish caught from the lake.

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A few houses got solar panels, to charge gadgets and run small appliances. Kitchen is outside for an obvious reason. Fire for cooking is made on top of a stack of stones. As for the toilets, they’re located near the main island. And yes, residents have to ride a reed boat to get there.

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The Uros not only sell souvenirs to earn money, some also offer guesthouses for tourists to stay in overnight.

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While most of our group got on the reed boats for a quickie cruise, I was interviewed by an Uru named Maria. Who asked if my hair’s real, and caressed it the whole time she was chatting with me.

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When I managed to pull (my hair) away from Maria, I sat on a reed bench with my daughter Luna. In the quiet, I was able to take it all in. Well, almost quiet. Beavis was still in my head.
 

Round-The-World 2011-2012, Peru Leg:

Photo Essay: The Monastery of Saint Catherine (El Monasterio De Santa Catalina), Arequipa, Peru
Nazca Lines, Peru (Or Those Lines That The Hubby Thought Were Crop Circles
Paracas National Reserve, Peru: Images Of A Desolate Beauty
Islas Ballestas, Paracas,Peru: Penguins In The Wild
Huaca Pucllana, Lima, Peru: The Ruins And The Red Balloon
El Zaguan B&B, Lima, Peru

Gay Mitra
When not backpacking, she teaches her daughter sight words and belly dancing (even if she's not good at it). She's currently eating her way around some hippie town in Australia. She loves talking about herself in the third person.

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